Brick is a decorative and building block that does not naturally spawn anywhere. It is mostly used to make
nice looking homes and towers. Since brick is not flammable, it is often used to make fireplaces. Brick blocks
are made by putting clay in a furnace and then crafting the bricks in a 2x2 square. Brick is a durable block
and resists explosions well. Apickaxe must be used to recover the resource of a placed block, but it will take
under a second to break. Breaking a block with the player's hand is slow and will not yield the resource.
Clay's only current usage is to be made into bricks or clay blocks, as breaking clay drops 4 clay balls, which
can then be smelted into clay bricks. The 4 clay bricks can then be crafted into one brick block. This means
that for each clay block found in a map, players can make 1 brick block.
Brick (Block)
How To Lay Bricks And Blocks
Building with brick and block offers the homeowner and contractor great flexibility. The projects are limitless.
For purposes of this Training Manual, we will cover the basics of laying a brick or block wall. Rarely does a do-
it-yourselfer tackle a wall more than 3 or 4 feet high. Any wall higher than this may need steel reinforcement,
more in-depth training and a review by an architect or engineer. From this review, you will see the products
and tools needed and be able to guide a consumer through a simple project.
Brick And Block Laying Basics
Brick And Block Laying Basics
The first step in building a brick or block wall is to construct a solid footing or foundation wall. (See Slab
Construction) Be sure to allow the footing or foundation at least two full days to cure before beginning to
lay the block or brick. Keep the block or brick moist to reduce the absorption of too much moisture from
the mortar.
Good brick and block work starts on a good level foundation. Spacers, plumb lines and levels are used to
keep successive courses straight and plumb. The figure below shows how to start building up the corners
first, setting the level string lines and filling in toward the center of the wall. The next figures show how to lay
the block or brick in the mortar bed.
Mixing The Mortar
SAKRETE® Mortar Mix Type N or S is prepackaged and only needs the addition of water. The amount of
water needed is printed on the bag and will produce a nice "fat" plastic mortar. For best results, use a
mechanical mortar mixer and mix thoroughly until all material is wet and of a smooth, plastic consistency. A
mortar box and hoe can also be used for smaller projects.
Use a mortarboard and a pointed mason's trowel. When the air temperature is between 70° and 80°F, the
mixed mortar should be used within 1 hour. When used at temperatures above 80°, mortar will set faster.
Adding extra water to the mortar after the initial mixing (this is called retempering) is not recommended as
this will reduce strength and can cause shrinkage.
Laying Brick or Block
Apply a full mortar bed on the clean foundation, footing or ledge and carefully place the block or brick into
the setting bed.
Trimming off the excess mortar
The consistency and thickness of the mortar must be such that the brick or block does not move out of
place or compress the mortar. Lightly tap the block or brick in place using the handle of the trowel. This
assures good contact between the block or brick and the mortar.
Build up the corners first, then use the building line to aid in leveling each course. A running bond pattern is
most common.
When placing consecutive courses, remove the excess mortar with a quick striking motion of the trowel.
Excess mortar is saved and applied to the next head joint of the brick. A jointing tool (curved faced tool)
may be used to press the mortar into joints of brick after the excess has been struck off.
The best way to proceed is to place the mortar for the horizontal joints first, then butter each brick or block
on one end only to form the vertical or head joint on one side only.
Place the brick or block in the setting bed, tap in place. Butter the end of the next brick and set against the
previous one.
Tap in place and so on, being careful to make each block or brick follow the building line as close as possible.
All work starts with the corners. The last brick placed to complete a course is called a "closer." Most often the
closer is a full stretcher somewhere in the middle of the course.
Many brick or block patterns, require cutting.
Block walls that are used to support a roof, floor joists, etc., are finished with a sill plate to provide a means
to set and anchor the roof or floor joists. The sill plate is also anchored with bolts into the block cells filled
with portland cement grout.
The support over windows or other openings is created by a "lintel," a horizontal piece of steel, cast or
precast concrete serving to support the masonry above.
Brick And Block Paving
Uses and Applications Block paving has been THE growth area in the British and Irish Paving Industry over the last 20 years. Mass production techniques have reduced the prices of manufactured blocks to a reasonable level, and made this type of paving affordable to most projects. In fact, concrete block paving costs only £3- 6 per m² more than plain flags/slabs, when laid to a domestic driveway. Brick or Block paving can be used anywhere. They look great on drives and will provide many years of service. They can be used to great effect as paths, or patios, or mixed with other paving types to create a unique feature. They are a viable alternative to the more traditional asphalt or macadam surfacing for estate roads, and let's face it, they look a lot better than tarmacadam or plain concrete. They are even being used in areas of exceptional loads, such as airport taxi-ways, docks and freight yards. The design possibilities enabled by the use of these relatively small paving units are limited only by your imagination. If you can "see it in your mind's eye", then it can probably be constructed from block or brick paving. |
Types of blocks and bricks
There two basic types of block paving; the moulded concrete block (CBP - Concrete Block
Pavers), and the kiln-fired clay brick, hence the interchangeability of the terms block and brick
paving. In the following notes, concrete types are referred to as blocks, and clays as bricks.
terms, not all of which are repeatable in polite company!
The bricks and blocks are available in a range of thicknesses, from 40mm to 100mm. There are even 120mm units for exceptional applications, but they are not likely to be found in stock at your local supplier! For domestic use, the 50mm or 60mm units are most suitable. 80mm thick units are used for road construction or where there will be regular vehicle overrun, while the 100mm thick units are for heavy-duty pavements such as those in Freight Yards, Ports and Airports. We find that the 40mm thick blocks are now (thankfully) difficult to obtain and offer no significant cost saving over a 50mm thick unit. They are/were also particularly prone to breakage during the compaction phase of construction. |
Given the wide range of products on the market, choosing a block or brick paver for any given project can be a long, complex and fraught decision. Concrete Blocks Amongst the concrete blocks there is an enormous variety of shapes, sizes, colours, and textures now available, with all the major concrete paving manufacturers producing their own versions of the standard rectangular block, and also special shapes, "olde-worlde" looking tumbled or antiqued units, and an ever increasing array of textured blocks. Block Paving
Most rectangular blocks are moulded to a specific size, 100mm x 200mm x 50- 100mm, with exactly 50 blocks per square metre, and, because of this standard size, blocks from different manufacturers may be interchangeable, depending on tolerances and position of any spacer lugs. The typical rectangular blocks tend to have one presentable face, although some blocks are reversible, which makes easy work of replacing stained paving. The colour of concrete blocks is achieved by the use of concrete dyes, usually some form of metallic oxide. Even the best dyes are prone to some fading in natural daylight and the quality of the dyes is a significant factor in block price; cheaper blocks are usually coloured by cheaper, inferior dyes. The manufacturers rarely entertain any complaints of fading, so choose carefully. Make your selection by looking at blocks that have been in place for at least a couple of years, rather than from glossy publicity photos or newly-laid paving. Through-colour and face-mix There are two manufacturing processes used to produce colour (and, to a lesser extent, texture) in a concrete block. (even though it may be three or more different colours of concrete) into the mould in one operation, and then pressing and compacting to create a unit that has the colour running right through the block, even though it's most likely that only the top surface will ever be seen once the paving is laid. |
Through colour concrete block |
The colour is present throughout the whole block |
wasteful, there are manufacturing cost savings, that have to be considered.
There is a delay of only a very few seconds between placing the base and the face, so there
An unadorned, smooth-surfaced paver with bevelled edges, ideal for areas where an array of patterns, borders and colours are called for.
With its rustic charm, this paver lends warmth and character to any architectural style. It creates the effect of a larger cobble stone (150mm x 150mm)
Designed to ‘lock’ together when installed, this paver has the appearance of a ripple-surfaced cobble with bevelled edges.
This wavy-surfaced, stone-textured paver with beveled edges is designed to ‘lock’ together when installed.
By preventing soil erosion and through their permeability, Bosun Brick’s Grass Blocks are environmentally friendly. While functional, the blocks also create an aesthetically pleasing, natural look that complements the surrounding vegetation.
Retaining Wall Blocks
• in strength, installed in numerous ways to cater to the retaining wall’s strength requirements.
• in function, can be used to create a “living” wall.
• in laying patterns.
The load is carried on 5 points on the block compared to 3 points on similar systems thereby increasing the stability of the wall.
The alternative is to use a technique known as "Face Mix", in which a no-frill, un-coloured
'backing mix' or 'base mix' is first placed into the mould, partially pressed and then topped
with a high-quality, coloured 'face mix' concrete. The whole is then pressed and compacted
before being de-moulded and passed into the curing chamber.
is no day joint or construction joint, no plane of weakness, and absolutely no risk of
delamination between the two. The block cures as one, single, monolithic mass of concrete.
Example of a face-mix block |
The face mix is clearly visible above the backing mix concrete that makes up the bulk of the block. |
Face Mix allows the money to be spent only on that part of the block that will actually be
seen once the paving is laid.
Face Mix technology enables the manufacturer to use cheaper, possibly recycled aggregates
and alternative cements such as PFA and GGBFS for the backing mix, and to use a much
smaller quality of very high quality fine aggregates, cements and colours in the face mix.
While there may be cost savings, the production cycle-time for face mix manufacturing is
greater than that for the through-colour process, and so less block per hour can be
manufactured. There are also other costs involved in creating separate bins for face mix
aggregates and separate hoppers for the face mix concrete once mixed.
It's not possible to say that one production technique is better than the other. Both have
their advantages and disadvantages, and some special products, such as tumbled blocks,
need to be through-coloured otherwise they would have just the one serviceable face.
However, most production in Ireland, in continental Europe, and in North America use face-
mix technology far more widely than has been the case in Britain to date.
Clay paviors in differing sizes and colours |
The most usual size is 100-105 x 200-215 x 60mm; this means that, with some bricks, there are less than 50 bricks per square metre, and that not all clays are interchangeable. Unlike the concrete blocks, most clays are manufactured with 2 presentable faces, allowing them to be inverted to replace stained paving. |
Clay paviors on my own patio |
The colour of clay bricks is completely natural, not a chemical dye, and so these bricks are not subject to fading as are the concrete types. This use of natural colour also means that the range of colours available is almost limitless; reds, browns, buffs, greys, blues and a mass of multi-colour blends. If colour is an important factor in your project, clay bricks are probably the solution. From a contractor's point of view, clay bricks are much harder to cut with a conventional block splitter than are concrete blocks, and it's worth hiring-in a diamond-bladed bench-saw if there are a lot of cuts to be made. |
Note that 'house' bricks, 'facing' bricks or 'commons' ARE NOT SUITABLE for paving. They were never designed for that purpose, and often fail when wrongly used as a pavior, by flaking or cracking or just disintegrating in damp conditions. Conversely, paving bricks are not designed to build walls or pillars. Horses for courses, as they say.
Laying methods There are two laying methods commonly used. The most popular is termed 'flexible paving', indicating that the blocks or bricks are laid on a sand bed and the joints filled with a fine silica sand. A detailed description of the methods used in laying a flexible pavement is given on the flexible construction page. There is also a step-by-step illustrated guide to a typical block paving project and a design guide for Highway and Commercial projects. Rigid paving refers to, usually, clay bricks laid on a concrete or mortar bed with mortar joints, much as a wall, although on the horizontal plane, rather than vertical. This type of brick paving uses completely different construction methods and is covered on the rigid brick paving page. Maintenance Medium level maintenance is required once laid. Sweep occasionally to remove dust and detritus. If you find green algae building up on them, it can be safely removed by cleaning or, we are told, by swilling the area with Jeyes Fluid to kill the algae, which can then be swept away after a couple of days. Use of a pressure washer should be limited to very dirty pavements and no more than once a year, as the high-power water jet loosens jointing and can damage some pavings. Sodium Chlorate, to deter mosses and weeds from setting up residence in the sand joints. |
Algae and moss on clay pavers can be attractive in the right setting |
Concrete blocks can be prone to weed growing into the joints |
It's worth noting that, generally speaking, weeds grow INTO paving, not through it, unless it
has been really badly laid. The claims made regarding the necessity or value of "weed
barriers" beneath block paving are spurious and should be treated with caution.
There is a wide range of sealants available to protect the completed paving from colour
degradation and oil spillage. The best sealants will repel oils, weak acids, dirt and weeds; the
cheap ones are little more than glorified varnish.
Paving Bricks
Large Urban Paver Laying Pattern |
Large Urban Paver
Extra large non-Beveled paver designed for smooth trafficing of trolleys at shopping complexes but at the same time it creates a uniquely, contemporary look to compliment modern residential architecture.Specifications: | |||||||||||
Multi-blend Grey Red Sahara Black Tan Brown Autumn Blend Granite Marble |
|
Bevel Bond Paver
Bevel Bond Paver
Laying Patterns |
Specifications: | |||||||||||
Multi-blend Grey Red Sahara Black Tan Brown Autumn Blend |
|
Bosun Cobble
Laying Patterns |
Specifications: | |||||||||||
Multi-blend Grey Red Sahara Black Tan Brown Autumn Blend |
|
Rio Rocoso Interlocker
Laying Patterns |
Specifications: | |||||||||||
Multi-blend Grey Red Sahara Black Tan Brown Autumn Blend |
|
Shale Interlocking Paver
Laying Patterns |
Specifications: | |||||||||||
Multi-blend Grey Red Sahara Black Tan Brown Autumn Blend |
|
60mm Interlocking Paver
A robust paver, available in a versatile range of colours.Laying Patterns |
Specifications: | |||||||||||
Multi-blend Grey Red Sahara Black Tan Brown Autumn Blend |
|
80mm Interlocking Paver
A heavy-duty paver, available in a versatile range of colours.Laying Patterns |
Specifications: | |||||||||||
Multi-blend Grey Red Sahara Black Tan Brown Autumn Blend |
|
WaterwisePaver
Designed to use in permeable paving systems, this paver anchors itself to pavers form adjoining rows, while leaving gaps in the surface, through which water could drain. The patented design allows for various installation options, determined by the level of permeability required.
Layout Patterns |
Waterwise Paver |
Specifications: | |
Dimensions | 239mm x 209mm |
Height | 60mm |
Mass per Paver | ± 4.1kg |
Compressive strength | 25MPa |
Pavers per m² | Vary according to permeability (23-30) |
Economy Paver
Grass Blocks
Specifications: | |||||||||
Multi-blend Grey Red Sahara Black Tan Brown Autumn Blend |
|
Retaining Wall Blocks
curved |
straight |
snaked |
Versatile:
• in aesthetic appeal, used with either the front, back or side of the block exposed to create different finishes.• in strength, installed in numerous ways to cater to the retaining wall’s strength requirements.
• in function, can be used to create a “living” wall.
• in laying patterns.
The load is carried on 5 points on the block compared to 3 points on similar systems thereby increasing the stability of the wall.
Colours: Multi-blend Grey Red Sahara Black Tan Brown Autumn Blend | Technical specifications
|
Kerbs
Half-battered, heavy duty barrier kerb. Used to create traffic islands and corners. It restricts access onto the pavement. Used in heavy traffic areas.
Mass of 1000mm length +- 110kg
Mass of 330mm length +- 36kg
Minimum transverse strength 22kN
Density 2200kg/m3
Core test after 14 days 20MPa
Half-battered, medium duty barrier kerb. Installed in townhouse complexes and small shopping centres.
Mass of 1000mm length +- 80kg
Mass of 330mm length +- 26kg
Minimum transverse strength 19kN
Density 2200kg/m3
Core test after 14 days 20MPa
Semi-mountable kerb. The shape allows motor vehicles to mount the kerb if necessary. Only used on roads.
Mass of 1000mm length +- 105kg
Mass of 330mm length +- 35kg
Minimum transverse strength 23kN
Density 2200kg/m3
Core test after 14 days 20MPa
Medium-duty mountable kerb, suited to commercial traffic.
Mass of 1000mm length +- 86kg
Mass of 330mm length +- 27kg
Minimum transverse strength 15.5kN
Density 2200kg/m3
Core test after 14 days 20MPa
Mountable kerb, used at the entrances to driveways, separates the road and the driveway.
Mass of 1000mm length +- 107kg
Mass of 330mm length +- 36kg
Minimum transverse strength 20.5kN
Density 2200kg/m3
Core test after 14 days 20MPa
Garden kerb. Used as the edging of pathways and flower beds, to ensure that the paving does not shift. Can also be used as an anchor block on slopes.
Mass of 500mm length +- 12kg
Minimum transverse strength 2.5kN
Density 2200kg/m3
Core test after 14 days 10MPa
Channel for run-off water, used on commercial and industrial roads.
Mass of 1000mm length | +- 72kg |
Mass of 330mm length | +- 24kg |
Minimum transverse strength | 11kN |
Density | 2200kg/m3 |
Core test after 14 days | 20MPa |
Reflective Pavers and Kerbs
Laying Patterns |
Reflective Pavers and Kerbs
A reflective topping is applied to any smooth surfaced Bosun paver or kerb. Used in conjunction with standard Bosun pavers to form reflective demarcation, informational and directional road markings.
Colours:
Red
Yellow
White
Applications
Stop streets
Pedestrian crossings
Traffic islands
Speed humps
Parking bays
Chevrons
Benefits:
• Superior to traditional painted road markings.
• Virtually maintenance free.
• Easy to install – you just need to slot in the paving, whereas with painted road markings the pavers need to be treated with acid wash prior to priming, painting and sealing.
• Long-term cost savings – performance trials in Singapore demonstrated that under similar traffic conditions, painted road markings started to disappear within a month. The reflective pavers continued to perform after seven years.
• Wear and tear exposes the reflective beads in the topping, therefore improving the luminosity of the reflective pavers over time.